Jeans are the seeds which we grow our style around, an item which remains faithful throughout the seasons and is a staple to all men. They’re more important to men than they are to a woman’s wardrobe – probably due to women having a few more options than blokes – and it’s because of this that we build such an attachment to each pair. You find that one pair which fits you perfectly, exactly what you want from a pair of jeans so you wear them until they crumble and die, leaving you frantically hunting for the same style years later. It’s traumatic but unavoidable. The best thing to do is to try a new fit, wash or brand every season, thus opening yourself up to new things ( like trying the latest ‘it’ cuisine) and you could end up walking away with a fantastic collection of denim which will serve you much longer.
Like all ‘basics’ it rarely feels necessary to update them because they’re fairly unaffected by trends. But each season there’s usually something small which will have changed, be it a new wash or a different way of wearing them, it’s good to stay on top of it. Since everything went skinny not much has drastically changed in the world of jeans, it’s still all about the slim fits and to wear a baggy pair would be highly inappropriate. Blatant branding isn’t the main aim as it used to be, it’s actually become far more trendy to wear specialist denim labels like Nudie Jeans, Diesel, Acne, Natural Selection and Edwin Jeans – all picked by our buyer for their specialist qualities. If you’re going for a new pair of jeans it just feels right to buy a label which knows it’s stuff about denim. So this season there’s a couple of things to think about when trying out new fits, washes and brands…
SLIM STILL RULES
If you’re not quite into the whole super skinny look, then it’s slim fits all the way! A straight leg or slightly tapered that’s mid rise and snug around the hips upon buying is what you’re looking for. They’re generally more relaxed this season, so are going to look cracking with a pair of workmen boots this autumn…
NO 50 SHADES OF DENIM
Keep it simple with understated shades, no acid washes, electric blues or pastel pinks, stick to indigo and naturally weathered washes. Like a fine wine jeans tend to get better over time…
TO HEM OR NOT TO HEM
Length is a tricky one with jeans because hemming a pair can actually effect the whole cut and could end up looking odd after a few washes. If you’re going to hem them, stop at the point just below your ankle bone where the top of your shoes should kick in. This look is made for loafers and driving shoes, so before getting the snip (ahem) make sure you’re happy with that pair becoming your ‘slip on shoe jeans’.
TURN UPS
It’s a bit of a marmite situation, some people love it and others think it looks crap. Personally, I like it. I think it’s a great way of avoiding that awful bulky mess, that gathers around your ankles when you’ve bought too long (in denial about your height…?). Don’t do it, it doesn’t look good. Selvedge denim looks best when it comes to turn ups, and can look fantastic with a pair of traditional brogues for a smarter look, or something chunky like Dr Martens for that edgy/rebellious style. Word of advice for the smaller gentlemen, turn ups can actually draw attention to your leg length so it may be best to avoid…
IGNORE LABOUR DAY RULES
‘No one wears white after Labour day’ – yes this is more of an American rule but we’re saying that it can be ignored this anyway. Lots of people are gearing up to continue wearing their white jeans into the autumn months – well you might as well get some decent wear out of them post summer. Treat them like a normal wash of jeans and embrace them in all situations. We’re seeing thicker shirts worn under blazers, trench coats and woollen utilitarian jackets piecing together a great look for September.
*Acne Studios is only available at John Anthony Bath