I have true respect for Yohji Yamamoto and the way that he shaped a new genre of fashion during a time where neon sports jackets, gaudy prints and mullets were cool. Instead of jumping on the bandwagon with the other big designers of the decade – Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier and Giorgio Armani – with their flamboyance and love of all things wild, Yamamoto joined the scene with an all black collection of oversized garments that couldn’t be a more opposite contrast. From every interview or video that I’ve ever seen or read with Yohji Yamamoto, it’s clear that he never wanted to do anything that he didn’t believe in. Upon graduating from University in his home city of Tokyo with a Law degree, he decided to ditch any idea of becoming a lawyer and stayed at home with his Mum helping her with her dressmaking business. Risky but I think we can safely say that it paid off knowing that he is now one of the biggest names in both mens and womens fashion, as well as a collaborator – of over a decade – with one of the top sportswear brands in the world.
As the first designer to cross the divide between high fashion and sportswear, the Yohji Yamamoto X Adidas collaboration was a phenomenal success. With all the new designer X sports partnerships happening, which we’ve seen many of in the past few years, it’s the Adidas Y3 collection that will always be the mastermind behind sports couture. The Spring/ Summer 2014 collection that was shown during Paris Men’s Fashion Week way back in June, exhibited signs of surf culture themes….fairly fitting for a summer range but not something I’d usually associate the black clad Yohji with.
Officially the collection is said to have ‘explored an energetic fusion of surf and punk’, hence the hawaiian prints on black fabric? Keeping a base palette of black, greys and white, Yamamoto has introduced a vibrant array of colours to sit alongside his signature ‘Hiroshima Chic’. The sports uniform of polos and t-shirts are neatly finished off with a trimming of hawaiian print, bringing life to a plain piece. Alongside this are the usual more subtle pieces in lovely soft spring shades of green, blue and grey. The black sports jacket remain faithful and constant.
The big one for us this season is the arrivals of the highly anticipated Adidas Y3 Qasa Low II. If you’ve been an avid fan of Y3 since the early days, you’ll probably recognise the name Qasa as one of the original styles in the Adidas X Yamamoto collaboration. Yamamoto shows his futuristic approach to sports footwear with a neoprene sock-like body, elasticated strap and unique tubular sole. The distinctive hollowed out tube sole is the Qasa’s signature feature, kept throughout the years with each adaptation, it remains a constant. Each season there’s always that one trainer that will make it’s mark and become the must-have. This year it’s the Qasa Low.
Explore what we’ve had in for S15 so far here